I apologize for the limited number of reports that I have been sending in lately. My tennis coach has been keeping the team busy. I just started my freshman year at High School and was happy to have made the junior varsity tennis team. To my surprise, after a couple of weeks, I was called up to practice and play with the varsity team. It’s been a challenge, but fun. We have two – three hours practices, Monday through Friday and matches Tuesdays and Thursdays, usually taking up the whole afternoon. Despite playing tennis almost everyday, I was able to surf a few times on the Scott Burke board when the waves were fun. Unfortunately, nature doesn’t always cooperate. For example, I had some free time and was hoping to surf a couple weeks ago, but was disappointed to see a strong north-west wind, messing with the waves. No problem as there are always alternative activities. Instead, my parents and I went hiking on a trail in La Costa, full of switchbacks. The hike was pretty simple, but still proved to be a thorough workout as we were plastered with sweat at the end. The hike itself was in the desert and had a great view, seeing all the way to the ocean.
Anyway, the waves and the weather got better last week, and I was finally able to get some surfing time at Tamarack, our local break, paddling out late that morning. Taking a step into the water I immediately sensed the coming of winter. The water got colder, but was still bearable in a spring suit, and not yet full-fledged winter water. The tide was high, which is not favorable for Tamarack, but there were lots of fun, small waves breaking close to shore. Surfing Tamarack at high tide can be tricky because the shore is so close to where the wave breaks, but having surfed there my whole life I know when and how to kick out before the wave fully closes out. Also, the weather was nice, around 70 degrees, with a light wind. The majority of waves were left with each wave varying from slow and crumbly to a nice pace and flow with just the right amount of steepness. After an hour passed, the tide dropped and the waves started to break farther out, got better and slightly bigger. I had my own peak catching the lefts, while everyone else focused on the rights. This surf session was great because the waves seemed to come in at a constant rate. The sky was covered in light gray clouds, shielding the sun. Most of my waves were fun and actually had good shape, involving stepping up and down the board. The surf sesh that day was fun and relieving at the same time because I was finally able to surf again.
Today, I took a look at the waves, but it looked messy and flat. Hopefully, that’ll change soon and I’ll be able to have another surf sesh with the blue board.
Thank you! Have a nice October!